2021 Arretxea Irouléguy Dolia

This inky, tooth-staining blend of Tannat, Cabernet Franc, and a dash of Cabernet Sauvignon is structured and deep, with a bright acidity and an abundance of wild dark fruits and black cardamon. But you’ll find neither brawn nor bluster here. The amphora-like clay vessels known as Dolia, in which the Riouspeyrous family ferments and ages this cuvée mellow its earthy tannins and allow for the pure expression of Irouléguy’s singular combination of climate, grapes, and geology. Open tonight with a grilled T-bone steak or the southern French classic, cassoulet. —Meghan Foley

In Irouléguy AOC in the Basque foothills of the Pyrenees, Domaine Arretxea was established in 1989 by Michel and Thérèse Riouspeyrous, who helped redefine a region long dominated by cooperative production. Farming initially two hectares and later expanding to around eight, they adopted organic and then biodynamic practices early on, focusing on estate bottling and terroir expression. Their vineyards, planted primarily to native varieties such as Tannat, Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Courbu, benefit from steep, south-facing slopes and mineral-rich sandstone soils. Since 2019, the domaine has been led by their sons, Iban and Teo, who continue the family’s low-intervention approach, producing structured, site-driven wines that reflect the distinct character of this small mountain appellation.