2020 Arretxea Irouléguy Cuvée Haitza

One of France’s great vins de garde, Haitza is opaque, dense, deep, and noble. Wild black fruits on the nose, along with pepper, spice, and a kiss of oak. A full-throttle Tannat (with a splash of Cabernet Sauvignon) to be treated like a great Bordeaux growth. —Anthony Lynch

In Irouléguy AOC in the Basque foothills of the Pyrenees, Domaine Arretxea was established in 1989 by Michel and Thérèse Riouspeyrous, who helped redefine a region long dominated by cooperative production. Farming initially two hectares and later expanding to around eight, they adopted organic and then biodynamic practices early on, focusing on estate bottling and terroir expression. Their vineyards, planted primarily to native varieties such as Tannat, Gros Manseng, Petit Manseng, and Petit Courbu, benefit from steep, south-facing slopes and mineral-rich sandstone soils. Since 2019, the domaine has been led by their sons, Iban and Teo, who continue the family’s low-intervention approach, producing structured, site-driven wines that reflect the distinct character of this small mountain appellation.