From: Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain
Varietal: Malvasia Volcanica Seco
Taste: 100% tank-aged Malvasía Volcanica, a grape that is truly indigenous to the Canary Islands, a crossing of Marmajuelo (an indigenous peach-skinned white grape) and Malvasía Aromatica.
"The 2024 Malvasia Volcánica from Los Bermejos is an excellent young wine. It delivers a lovely aromatic constellation of lime, pear, passion fruit, a complex serving of volcanic minerality, wild fennel and a topnote of delicate white flowers. On the palate the wine is crisp, precise and full-bodied, with a good core of fruit, lovely mineral undertow, a fine spine of acidity and a long, complex and impeccably balanced finish. This is already delicious right out of the blocks, but clearly has another layer of complexity to unfurl if given some time in the cellar. 2025-2035+. "
93 points John Gilman, View from the Cellar Issue 117
About. Owned and run by winemaker Ignacio Valdera, Bermejos is on the easternmost island of Lanzarote. Only 125km from the African coast, conditions here are extreme. A volcanic explosion that lasted from 1730-1736 covered the entire island in lava and ash 3-5 meters deep. Consequently, each vine must be planted in a hole or hoyo that breaks through that infertile volcanic crust of petrified lava to the organic matter that can nourish it. The wind, which acts as a natural fungicide, is so ferocious that each hoyo is surrounded by rock walls for protection. The flora on Lanzarote – including the vines – cannot grow up very high; there are not enough nutrients in the soil to support sprawling greenery. Yields are miniscule (16 hL/ha) and each berry is concentrated with flavor. All vineyard work is done meticulously by hand. Some of the wines are certified organic, depending on the vintage. Ignacio supplements his crop with purchased fruit from growers who share his vision of sustainable viticulture; with such low yields the winery would have to own most of the land on the island in order to produce financially sustainable quantities of wine from exclusively proprietary grapes.
