From: Marche, Italy
Taste & Critical Acclaim: A wine repeatedly awarded, and with an extraordinary quality-price ratio, that of Fabio Marchionni is an excellent and typical Verdicchio di Matelica, bred and vinified in a certified organic regime. The nose expresses delicate sensations of white flowers, citrus, Asian pear, chamomile, almonds, and aromatic herbs. The underlying texture evokes a slight minerality. Fresh and vertical, the palate is lively and youthful, a pure expression of the Marche hinterland. Sapid, with a contained structure, is destined for any time enjoyment.
Eric Asimov (New York Times): "This wine is so good and so reasonably priced that I regularly tout its virtues. It comes from Matelica, the smaller of two adjoining sources for verdicchio in the Marche, where Fabio Marchionni farms organically. It’s crisp and refreshing, with aromas and flavors of stones, flowers and almonds, a rich texture yet plenty of refreshing acidity. Drink it with anything.”
92 Michael Apstein May 23, 2023
Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller and lesser known than Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, is landlocked, unlike its more famous sibling. Despite its location, paradoxically, its wines have a more marine influence because this valley in the Apennine mountains was underwater in ancient times. Its marine origins explain the silt sediment and limestone, a perfect setting for fine wine. Typically, wines from Verdicchio di Matelica are more angular than the rounder ones from Verdicchio di Castelli Jesi, which make them an ideal match for summer seafood. Collestefano, one of the top producers in Verdicchio di Matelica, makes consistently fine wines that improve with bottle age. This 2022 is firm with a delicate yet persistent saline-like minerality. Lovely to drink now, it should develop beautifully over the next several years. So, you can buy this bargain-priced white by the case and not worry if you don’t go through it this summer. But you will.
Pairing: Verdicchio's crisp freshness goes well with seafood dishes like pasta, clams, paella, and risotto. It also pairs well with rich seafood, lobster, grilled tuna, and salmon. Other delicious pairings include appetizer or party-friendly recipes like corn and shrimp beignets, savory corn fritters, fried wontons, cheese and spinach phyllo rolls, and takoyaki (check it out below).
By Naz Deravian
Published Jan. 10, 2024
About. Many thanks to importer David Bowler for the following information.
AT A GLANCE
Fabio Marchionni is an expert on Verdicchio and has become a cult producer of Verdicchio di Matelica
Ian d’Agata has called his Verdicchio “possibly Italy’s greatest white wine buy.”
High elevation, mineral-driven racy Verdicchio
Collestefano was started in 1998 when Fabio Marchionni took over the estate that had been in his family for years. After getting his degree in agriculture, where he did his thesis on Verdicchio di Matelica, he went to Germany to work for Weingut Zähringer where he learned to work and farm organically with minimal environmental impact.
He then worked briefly in wine bars and restaurants before taking over the family farm.
His Verdicchio has been consistent in quality, winning at least two glasses from Gambero Rosso since the 2001 vintage (winning three glasses twice). It is an excellent value for an organic wine, easily competing with any Verdicchio on the market, most of which are more expensive.
The Matelica zone is further inland and at a higher elevation than the more common Verdicchio di Castelli di Jesi. Matelica wines tend to be brighter and more elegant, whereas the Castelli di Jesi wines often have a little more fruit and heft. Collestefano is the textbook for the Matelica style – bright and crisp with floral notes and a hint of pine.
· Practicing Organic · Working sustainably · Just under 8,000 cases produced · 15 hectares farmed · All massale selection · Hand-harvested
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