From: Alto Piemonte, Italy
Varietal: Vespolina
Vintage Notes:“The portion of the hills in the Novara province where the Vespolina grapes for our Maria are grown are of glacial origin and formed by fluvial-alluvial sediments rich in loam and relatively acidic. We have named this wine after our daughter Maria.” - Producer’s Official Website
Taste: This wine presents itself in the glass with a ruby color enriched with purple hues. The nose is greeted with a bouquet of red berries and spices, underpinned by the distinctive aroma of black pepper. This is due to the grape's richness in rotundone, the aromatic compound found in herbs like marjoram and black pepper. The wine is medium-bodied on the palate, balancing lively yet gentle tannins and fresh acidity. The flavors are a delicate interplay of pretty notes, with dusty cherry and red forest berries at the forefront, complemented by bright red fruit notes intertwined with straightforward herb and spice overtones.
Pairing: Enjoy this red wine with medium-cured salami, youthful cheeses, roasted poultry, BBQ, pastas, and Asian cuisine that incorporates Chinese Five Spice, fermented black bean, and dishes that include umami-laden flavors (see below for recipe). Some sauce examples that add umami are soy or oyster sauce (ps Amino Sauce is an organic, vegan, gluten-free alternative to Soy Sauce), fish sauce, and Worcester sauce. This easy-to-drink, youthful wine will delight with its lively character, offering a delightful accompaniment to various light-to-medium dishes.
Orange Beef
By Sam Sifton
About. Tucked away in the hilly landscapes of Alto Piemonte, amidst profound beauty, lies the heart of Francesco Brigatti’s vineyards, a family-run estate that stands as a testament to generations of dedication to viticulture. The journey begins in the early 1900s with Alessandro Brigatti, Francesco’s grandfather, who envisaged the first chapter of the estate’s history. Today, Francesco carries on this noble legacy, nurturing the indigenous Uva Rara variety (among other indigenous varietals from the area), the protagonist in their 'Selvalunga' Colline Novaresi.
His deep-rooted passion for wine drove Alessandro Brigatti’s venture into winemaking. His quest for an ideal vineyard led him to a south-facing, gently rolling hill, MötZiflon. A spot rich in clay soil and considered one of the finest in the Colline Novaresi DOC. Here, Alessandro planted the Nebbiolo, Vespolina, and Uva Rara vines, the region's three quintessential red grape varietals. Thus was born Mötziflon, the estate’s flagship wine named after the vineyard itself, often referred to as the 'Robin Hill'.
In the late 1950s, Alessandro's son, Luciano, took over the helm, leaving his job as an accountant to devote his energies entirely to the vineyard. His efforts revolutionized the estate through innovative practices like green harvesting and the introduction of novel aging and bottling techniques.
The third-generation steward, Francesco Brigatti, an enologist and agronomist, took the reins in 1995, maintaining the family-run approach to ensure uncompromising quality. Today, he manages 15 acres of vineyards, producing an annual yield of 30,000 bottles, following Integrated Pest Management practices in alignment with his vision of sustainable agriculture.
Francesco Brigatti, with his experience as an agronomist, ensures that the vineyards, with vines averaging 30 years of age, produce optimum yields. The 1,600 vines per acre are meticulously cared for, resulting in a yield of 3,200 Kg per acre.
Colline Novaresi is a wine-producing area located in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy. This area is part of the larger Piedmont wine region, known for producing some of Italy's most prestigious wines, including Barolo and Barbaresco. However, the Colline Novaresi DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) focuses on a different set of varietals and wine styles, reflecting the unique terroir and winemaking traditions of the Novara hills.
Vespolina is a red grape variety indigenous to the Piedmont region cultivated in the Colline Novaresi area. It is often used in blends to add complexity and aromatic qualities to the wine, but it can also be made into a varietal wine, showcasing its distinct characteristics. Vespolina wines are appreciated for their vibrant acidity, spicy notes, and red fruit flavors, making them a unique expression of the local winemaking heritage.
Vintage Notes:“The portion of the hills in the Novara province where the Vespolina grapes for our Maria are grown are of glacial origin and formed by fluvial-alluvial sediments rich in loam and relatively acidic. We have named this wine after our daughter Maria.” - Producer’s Official Website
This wine is crafted exclusively from 100% Vespolina grapes, sourced from vines aged 30 years, ensuring a depth of flavor and complexity. The vineyard boasts a planting density of 1,600 vines per acre, with a yield of 2,800 Kg per acre, indicating a careful balance between vine health and fruit concentration. Harvesting occurs at the end of September, capturing the grapes at their optimal ripeness. The vinification process begins with a meticulous selection of bunches directly in the vineyard, followed by fermentation in stainless steel vessels, which includes a 6-day skin contact period to extract color, flavors, and tannins. After fermentation, the wine is elevated for 6 months in stainless steel tanks, a method chosen to preserve the grape's characteristic fruitiness and spice notes. To further refine its profile and ensure its quality, the wine undergoes at least 6 months of bottle aging before release, allowing the flavors to integrate and mature, resulting in a well-rounded and harmonious final product.