From: Beaujolais, France

Varietal: Gamay

Taste & Critical Acclaim: 93 points John Gilman
"Like the Chiroubles in the Lafarge-Vial lineup in 2021, the Clos Vernay is also very red fruity in profile this year. The wine’s complex aromatic constellation offers up scents of cherries, cranberries, blood orange, gamebird, stony soil tones, a touch of white pepper, fresh thyme and a topnote of distant bonfire. On the palate the wine is pure, full-bodied and nicely structured for a young Fleurie, with excellent sappy depth at the core, suave tannins, excellent soil undertow and a long, tangy and modestly tannic finish. This will demand a few years in the cellar to blossom, but will be excellent once it is ready to drink." (5/2023)

88-90 points Vinous
"The 2021 Fleurie La Clos Vernay has a touch of reduction on the nose; the fruit is slightly darker than the regular Fleurie. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, fleshy with fine acidity and cohesive with a touch of bitter cherry on the finish. Lovely purity here. (NM)" (1/2023)

Burghound
"A slightly riper yet cool and wonderfully fresh nose combines notes of spice and pepper with those of both red and dark gamay fruit. There is solid volume and lovely mid-palate density, though here too the finish is a bit lean with a touch of asperity." (4/2023)

Jasper Morris
"Grown on a mixed soil of granite and quartz. Mid pink purple. This has the most typical bouquet so far, floral, red fruit, rose petals. Still a greener note but the fruit holds up well, and a slightly more mineral finish. Drink from 2024-2026. (10/2022)

Bill Nanson Burgundy Report: "1.3 ha, a granite and quartz base. Elevage in a foudre. A miniscule harvest from these 65 yo vines. Also impressively perfumed wine again. More direct and a hint kore intense, a vibration to this finishing energy then broadening again for the finish, here with a more mineral ‘extra." (10/2022)

Domaine Profile, courtesy of Becky Wasserman & Co.

Location: Fleurie, Beaujolais
Size: 4.1 ha (10.13 ac)
Variety: Gamay
Viticulture: Organic and biodynamic (awaiting certification)
Vinification: About 15 to 25% whole cluster, indigenous alcoholic and malolactic fermentation, aged in older oak barrels and demi-muids

Background
Lafarge, biodynamics, Gamay, granite – sounds like a match made in heaven n’est ce-pas? As if managing the Lafarge family’s iconic domaine in Volnay wasn’t enough, Frédéric and Chantal Lafarge decided in spring 2014 to embark on a new adventure a little further south. Still Burgundy but a new sector, a new grape variety and the inspiring Beaujolais Cru terroirs that come with it. What’s perhaps most beautiful about the new project is that the couple really wanted to invest in something together that would be entirely their own creation. This equal partnership is reflected in the inclusion of both of their names for the domaine’s title and on the label (Vial is Chantal’s maiden name).

Vineyards
The couple kicked off their venture by purchasing 2.25 hectares and winemaking facility in 2014. For this first vintage, they produced three cuvées – Chiroubles, Fleurie Bel Air and Fleurie Clos Vernay. In true Lafarge fashion, each one reflects its individual and specific vineyard origin. Frédéric and Chantal immediately began working all acquired vineyards biodynamically, with the same intention and detailed observation as for their Côte d’Or vineyards.

Following a few additional vineyard purchases, the domaine’s total surface area increased to 4.1 hectares for the 2015 vintage. This includes the acquisition of the gorgeous, high altitude, old vine plot of Joie du Palais in Fleurie. Here the steep slopes require horse-plowing, for which the Lafarges recruit Max, a beautiful gray horse who also spends time working Olivier Merlin’s vineyard in Moulin à Vent.

Frédéric is as giddy as a kid with a brand new toy – new terroirs to understand, new vineyards to observe and adapt his biodynamic methods to, and a new grape variety through which to communicate the combination of these complex elements.

Winemaking
The slight delay in ripeness between the Côte de Beaune and the Beaujolais allow the Lafarges to be fully present during harvest at both domaines for their first two vintages. The steep, gobelet-trained vineyards are hand-harvested and mostly de-stemmed, though there is up to 25% whole cluster in 2015. The couple prefers to stick to their traditional Burgundian vinification to ensure transparent terroir expression. Gentle extraction (with alternated punch-downs and pump-overs in 2014 and only pump-overs in 2015) and a relatively short élevage of 12 months in older barrels (228 or 350 liters) or foudres (30hl) is the rule of thumb for these Beaujolais Crus.

Wines
At Becky Wasserman & Co., we could not be more ecstatic about Frédéric and Chantal’s impressive, whole-hearted début. Though knowing these two, we’re not at all surprised by the already stunning results.