94 points Vinous
"In contrast with this year’s “regular” Himmelreich Auslese, this gold capsule interpretation evokes the citricity that I associate with the site. Headily scented, glossy and lusciously rich, it is at the same time cooling and refreshing, evoking a lime and grapefruit sorbet infused with Chartreuse-like floral and herbal essences. At the same time, quince paste, marzipan and overripe honeydew melon, reinforced by prominent sweetness, weigh in on the confitured, confectionary and decadent side. The impressively persistent finish is soothingly sustained and pure, if not quite so multifaceted for now as that of the corresponding Zeltinger Sonnenuhr. (DS)"(8/2020)
94 points Mosel Fine Wines: "The 2018er Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese GK was made from shrivelled rather than botrytized fruit, and was fermented down to noble-sweet levels of residual sugar. It offers a ripe but still rather backward nose made of honeyed fig, earthy spices, almond paste, and smoky elements. The wine proves gorgeously juicy and fruity on the still rather sweet palate, and leaves a superbly multi-layered feel of almond paste, fig, lemongrass, and spices. A touch of zest comes through in the after-taste and adds to the complex and layered sensation. This remarkably elegant wine only needs patience to absorb its sweetness and reveal its finesse. 2033-2058 (10/2019)"
About the wine. JJ Prum might be the most renowned Riesling producer in the world, and their 2018 releases are again exceptional. The Auslese styles carry a good amount of residual sugar (some botrytis but not in this case), ringing acidity and intense citrusy concentration, and the Goldkapsel, or Gold Capsule, is Prum's internal classification as the best wines they can make.
Graach is the village on steep banks of the Mosel, and Himmelreich (the Kingdom of Heaven) is the vineyard directly up the slope towards the forested hill crest.
A truly luscious and powerful wine. It needs a bit of aeration to open up the citrus, smoky aromatics, then the palate reveals layers of stonefruit, grapefruit, and the tell-tale rocky minerality of the site. Could age for decades, though this vineyard is typically an earlier drinking site than Wehlener Sonnenuhr.
About Joh Jos Prum
About Joh. Jos. Prum. Founded in 1911, and sporting one of the great unbroken track records for quality (save a short reprieve during World War II), J.J. Prum is one of the great wine producers of Germany, and indeed, the world.
These rare sweet wines are legendary for their incredible longevity, purity, and articulation of place. They are touted by critics as some of the finest examples of Riesling to be found anywhere on the planted. As Stephan Reinhardt once wrote, "the world always seems a better place with a glass of Prüm in hand."
The Prum family has seen the estate through three generations, with current director Dr. Katharina Prum taking hold of the reins during the 2007 harvest. With Katharina's commitment to tradition and quality from her family's label, J.J. Prum is sure to remain one of the benchmarks of the Mosel for decades to come.
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