From: Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy, Italy
Varietal: Pinot Nero

Taste: On the nose, it unfurls with a bouquet of white flowers and honeysuckle, interwoven with crisp, invigorating citrus. A complex mineral undertone introduces a depth beautifully complemented by aromas of lush red fruit: strawberry, raspberry, and cherry. Hints of baked apple, enriched by spice, honey, and orange zest nuances, with subtle ginger and kumquat.

On the palate, 'Sillery' reveals a broad and silky texture that elegantly envelopes the taste buds, supported by a medium-high acidity that strikes a perfect balance for those sensitive to higher-acid wines. Its medium body carries baked apple and stone fruit flavors, with spiced pear and French cantaloupe adding a succulent and rounded layer. The finish is lingering and clean, leaving an indelible impression that demands another sip.

Pairing: Its nuanced flavors and aromas will beautifully complement rich and creamy dishes, as well as delicately spiced and savory meals. An exceptional match for a Mushroom Risotto, where its underlying minerality and the umami from the mushrooms would harmoniously intertwine. The spiced complexity of Thai Curry, balanced by the wine's medium-high acidity and fruit undertones, creates a palate-refreshing duo, while a dish of Saffron Rice finds a perfect companion in this wine, enhancing its aromatic spice notes.

With protein dishes, an Avocado Salad dressed in lemon would benefit from the wine's citrus undertones, offering a refreshing contrast to the creamy texture of the avocado. Its medium body and silky texture make it an excellent choice for seafood - shellfish, shrimp, crab, lobster, and white fish, where the wine's acidity and fruitiness can cut through the richness and highlight the delicate flavors of the sea. This will also pair with the classic white meat proteins - chicken and pork.

Pasta served with cream sauces finds a worthy counterpart in this wine, as its broad palate and clean finish cut through the creaminess, elevating the dish's overall taste profile. We like the idea of an adventurous pairing with Chicken Chow Fun, with its baked apple and spiced pear notes complementing the dish's savory and slightly sweet elements.

Spicy Crab Linguine with Mustard, Crème Fraîche and Herbs
By David Tanis

About. In one of Italy's lesser-known yet historically rich Oltrepò Pavese region sits the Frecciarossa estate. Since its inception in 1919 by Mario Odero, a visionary Italian merchant with a profound love for the idyllic hills and vineyards surrounding an enchanting 18th-century villa, Frecciarossa has woven a rich narrative of wine, heritage, and innovation.

His son, Giorgio Odero, magnificently carried forward Mario's legacy. His education in Champagne and Burgundy infused Frecciarossa with a profound understanding of Pinot Noir, elevating the estate to international recognition by the 1920s. This acclaim was so widespread that Alfred Hitchcock, during his stay at Lake Como, memorably penned his appreciation for Frecciarossa's 'La Vigne' Bianca on the back of a Villa D’Este menu.

Valeria Radici Odero, Mario's great-granddaughter, has embraced the mantle of stewardship with a blend of reverence for tradition and a zest for contemporary winemaking. Her collaborative efforts with Piedmont consultant Cristiano Garella and historic enologist Gianluca Scaglione have heralded a new era of excellence at Frecciarossa. Valeria's philosophy, rooted in the belief that wine is akin to offspring, nurtured with love and respect to reflect its origins, encapsulates her dedication to crafting authentic wines of their terroir.

The Frecciarossa estate, a 19th-century organic farm, sprawls across 37 hectares of fertile landscape, interspersed with vineyards, hazelnut groves, and other agricultural bounty. This setting serves as the backdrop to the production of Frecciarossa’s wines and as a living museum of the Oltrepò Pavese's agrarian heritage.

From the textured complexity of the 'Anamari' cru, made from local varietals, to the pioneering 'Sillery', a Pinot Nero vinified as a white wine, Frecciarossa's offerings celebrate variety and quality. The ‘Sillery,' in particular, stands out as a vibrant homage to its namesake in Champagne, capturing the essence of Pinot Noir with a unique twist that resonates with wine lovers - novice and experienced.

The soils of Frecciarossa, rich in iron-red clay, marl, and limestone, bear the imprints of a long-gone sea, adding layers of minerality and complexity to the wines. The name Frecciarossa means "Red Arrow" in Italian. However, the origin of the name stems from a misinterpretation of the local dialect phrase "fraccia rossa," which translates to "red landslide." This naming was due to the color and nature of the soil on the estate, characterized chiefly by clay with iron ore veins, which tends to retain a significant amount of water underground and is prone to frequent landslides. The term was mistakenly translated as Frecciarossa at the local registry at the turn of the last century, and it has remained the name of the hill and the winery ever since. This unique name reflects the winery's deep connection to its terroir and adds a layer of historical and cultural identity to the estate.

The 'Sillery' from Frecciarossa is a distinct and intriguing wine, primarily because it is a Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir) vinified as a white wine. This technique showcases the versatility and nuanced expression of the Pinot Nero grape. This winemaking method allows the wine to retain the aromatic complexity and freshness of the grape while presenting a profile markedly different from the traditional red Pinot Nero wines.

The Pinot Nero grapes used for 'Sillery' are carefully sourced from the less exposed slopes of Frecciarossa's vineyards in the Oltrepò Pavese region. This strategic choice of vineyard location ensures that the grapes benefit from a cooler microclimate, essential for preserving the acidity and freshness that are pivotal to the character of ‘Sillery.' The vineyards are part of Frecciarossa's 37-hectare estate, where meticulous attention is paid to sustainable farming practices and maintaining the health and balance of the vineyard ecosystem.

The 2022 vintage from the foothills of Casteggio offers a distinctive wine, crafted under precise conditions that highlight its unique terroir. Situated at an altitude of 140-200 meters above sea level, the vineyards benefit from a lime/clay soil composition and a northeast-northwest orientation. This environment, coupled with a simple Guyot training system and a vine density of 4,800 vines per hectare, nurtures vines with an average age of 16 years. The result is a yield of 1-1.2 kg per vine, achieved through meticulous leaf thinning in July and careful hand-harvesting of the grapes into 17 kg boxes.

Vinification involves gentle pressing of the grapes to maintain the integrity of the wine without extracting excess color, followed by alcoholic fermentation at a controlled temperature of 15-16°C for 20-22 days, notably omitting malolactic fermentation. This process ensures the preservation of the wine's natural acidity and aromatic expression. The wine is then aged for 6 months in stainless-steel vats, ensuring the development of its character while retaining its freshness and varietal purity. The harvest on August 13th, 2022, led to bottling on March 3rd, 2023, culminating in a production of 28,000 bottles.

This vintage was marked by extreme heat and minimal rainfall, leading to significant day-night temperature variations toward the season's end. Despite the challenges, the early harvest and the strategic timing ensured that the grapes were of excellent quality, with the wine showcasing a balance of aromatic complexity and the right acidity levels, embodying the essence of its production area and the meticulous care invested throughout its cultivation and creation process.

The vinification process of 'Sillery' meticulously accentuates the savory and floral characteristics of Pinot Nero, prioritizing freshness and aromatic complexity above all. This begins with an early harvest, ensuring the grapes retain high acidity and the freshest aromatic compounds essential for a vibrant and lively white wine. Upon reaching the winery, the grapes are gently pressed, a crucial step that extracts the juice while minimizing skin contact to maintain a white wine profile despite the typically color-contributing skins of Pinot Nero. Fermentation proceeds in stainless steel tanks under controlled temperatures to preserve the grape's delicate floral and fruity notes. It stays in stainless tanks for only 6 months and then bottled. The wine is bottled relatively early to capture its aromatic freshness and vitality.