From: Alto Adige, Italy
Varietal: Vernatsch (Schiava)
"Alte Reben" translates to "old vines," indicating that this wine is crafted from grapevines that have reached a significant age, leading to lower yields but grapes of concentrated flavors and complexity. This focus on old vines is crucial for producing wines of depth and intensity.
Taste: The 2022 vintage of Franz Gojer's Vernatsch Alte Reben is characterized by its striking, refined elegance and complexity, a hallmark of wines produced from old vines. On the nose, it displays an inviting array of aromas - ripe red fruits like cherries and raspberries are predominant, complemented by rose petals, sweet herbs, and a touch of baking spice. Gojer’s Vernatsch is beautifully light and fresh; the palate is textured and supple, with a refreshing acidity that keeps everything bright, while silky tannins lead to a smooth, lingering finish. These aromas and flavors continue to open in layers, and we do recommend getting more than one bottle and serving with a slight chill, as it’s so quaffable! It’ll disappear before you know it.
Pairing: This pretty red pairs with everything a red-fruited, fresh Pinot Noir will pair with. This includes picnic fares like ham and cheese buns or jambon-beurre baguettes, pâte and rillette, charcuterie and fromage boards, fried chicken, roasted chicken or pork with caramelized shallots and potatoes, roast turkey and gravy, Swedish meatballs, anything with mushroom, roasted vegetables (especially butternut squash), rice or farro dishes, pasta with Mediterranean herbs and olive oil, meals based around umami flavors (check out the Midnight pasta recipe below), roasted or grilled salmon, sausage and polenta or a parmesan/mushroom polenta, and even pizza, tacos, and smash burgers.
Midnight Pasta With Anchovies, Garlic and Tomato
By Melissa Clark
About: The Franz Gojer Winery, in the heart of South Tyrol, Italy, has been producing wines for over 150 years. Known as Glögglhof, Franz Gojer's estate is in the prime location of St. Magdalena Hill, an amphitheater-shaped area just northeast of Bolzano. This region is renowned for its Schiava grapes, and among connoisseurs, Gojer is acclaimed as the foremost producer of this variety.
Franz Gojer is a prominent member of the 'gang of four,' a collective of distinguished small producers from Alto Adige, alongside Andreas Widmann, Ignaz Niedrist, and Peter Pliger from Kuenhof. This alliance is celebrated for showcasing their exceptional wines at Vinitaly for many years, united by a philosophy that emphasizes expressive, emblematic of their origin, and meticulously crafted wines. Their shared commitment to producing wines that are not only typical of the region but also unparalleled quality has set a benchmark in winemaking.
Franz Gojer's legacy is carried forward by his son, Florian, who, after an apprenticeship with Jim Clendenen in Santa Barbara, has joined forces with his father at Glögglhof. Together, they have expanded their viticultural pursuits to include a high-altitude vineyard at Karneid, where they cultivate Weissburgunder, Kerner, and Sauvignon, alongside a rare planting of old-vine Vernatsch. This vineyard, located 600 meters above sea level, on the opposite side of the valley from their primary estate, introduces a new dimension to their winemaking palette, further enriching their diverse range of high-quality wines.
Gojer's estate is dedicated to sustainable viticulture and the production of wines that vividly express the unique terroir of South Tyrol—focusing on indigenous grape varieties such as Schiava, complemented by a small percentage of Lagrein. Schiava, locally referred to as Vernatsch and known in German as Trollinger, signifies its deep ties to the Tyrol region, hinting at its indigenous roots through the name, which reflects its capacity for high yields.
St. Magdalena's vineyards are on the slopes around Bolzano, in the Isarco Valley, where the surrounding Dolomite mountains shelter them. This geographical positioning is crucial for several reasons. Firstly, the slopes provide optimal sun exposure, ensuring the grapes receive ample sunlight for photosynthesis, which is crucial for sugar development and ripening. Secondly, the elevation varies across the region, offering a range of microclimates that can influence the wine's flavor and aroma.
The area enjoys warm days, vital for the ripening of grapes, and cool nights, which help maintain the grapes' acidity levels and aromatic compounds. This diurnal temperature variation is essential for developing the complex flavors and maintaining the wines' freshness. Additionally, the region benefits from the "Ora," a local wind that blows northward up the Adige valley in the afternoons, providing ventilation that helps to keep the grapes healthy and reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
The soils in the St. Magdalena area are diverse, with a mix of sandy, loamy, and clay soils alongside deposits of dolomite rock and porphyry, a volcanic rock contributing to the mineral complexity of the wines. The mineral-rich soils, in particular, are believed to add a distinctive minerality to the wines, enhancing their complexity and depth.
Unfamiliar with Alto Adige - Südtirol? Check out this excellent article by VinePair.