From: Alto Adige (Südtirol), Italy
Blend: Grüner Veltliner
The Grüner Veltliner vines were planted between 2002 and 2015 and span an area of 1.2 ha. Situated at 660-700 meters, these vines benefit from a fermentation process split equally between stainless steel vats and demi-muid barrels over 10-12 days. All grapes are meticulously handpicked and transported promptly to the winery to ensure freshness. The wines age gracefully on fine lees until February without undergoing malolactic fermentation.
Grüner Veltliner has an intriguing history. It results from a chance crossing of Weißer Traminer and St. Georgenrebe from Burgenland. While its origin is Austrian, it has found a second home in South Tyrol. The region of Brixen has been experimenting with this varietal since 1881. Its re-emergence in 1990 in the Isarco Valley makes it a stand-out variety in Italy.
Taste: Acacia introduces subtle texture, elevating the spice and pepper notes that balance the core of firm peach and white pear fruit. As one dives deeper, they encounter delicate floral nuances, tropical citrus hints, and an exotic spice undertone, all enveloped in a veil of sweet smoke. It delights with its round textures, the core of minerality, and a lingering finish marked by lemon rind and apricot. Eric Guido of vinous.com offers a commendable rating of 92, suggesting that a bit of cellaring will only enhance its charm.
Pairing: This Austrian gem is known for its primary fruit flavors of zesty lime, lively lemon, and tangy grapefruit, accompanied by a distinctive green and herbaceous note reminiscent of white pepper. But what truly sets Grüner Veltliner apart is its signature vein of acidity, which explodes in your mouth like pop rocks. With its crispness and palate-cleansing prowess, Grüner Veltliner is a match made in heaven for richly flavored dishes. Take the classic Austrian Weiner Schnitzel, featuring a thinly sliced veal cutlet coated in egg, crusted, and fried to golden perfection in butter or oil. With each bite of creamy, rich meat, the acidity and spice in Grüner Veltliner work effortlessly. When it comes to spices: think spices and herbs without overwhelming heat: ginger, white pepper, chives, shallots, and a myriad of exotic spices like cumin, coriander, curry leaves, sumac and Zatar.
Considering the traditional match-up of Austrian Weiner Schnitzel with Grüner Veltliner, we believe this delectable Southern-inspired chicken-fried catfish would provide a delightful twist. The catfish's richness and the flavorful spices in its crispy coating will harmonize beautifully with the wine.
Country Fried Chesapeake Catfish With Jalapeño-Mint Aioli
By Jane Black
About: The captivating realm of Alto Adige, also called Südtirol, presents a rich mosaic of Italian and German influences. When making a call, one might even be greeted with a robust “Hallo?" instead of the familiar Italian "Pronto!". In the heart of this region, Bressanone or Brixen awaits, a town just shy of the Austrian border. Manni Nössing has established his winemaking sanctuary, with vineyards surrounded by the majestic Dolomites.
Manni comes from a lineage of farmers and has gracefully adopted the age-old viticulture traditions despite not undergoing formal training. He finds his learning curve in each vintage, ensuring his wines resonate with the spirit of their origins. In 2000, a decision to bottle his wines rather than sell to a co-op led to the emergence of a brand bearing his signature. Manni's portfolio extends across 5 hectares of hillside vineyards with 650 to 900 meters of elevation. While the Kerner grape, a Riesling and Schiava hybrid, takes up half of his production, he also invests his artistry into varieties like Grüner Veltliner, Müller Thurgau, Riesling, Sylvaner, and Gewürztraminer. Manni's commitment to creating wines that reflect balance and drinkability led him to shun practices like green harvesting and de-leafing. His observation that his grapes thrived more in the shade than under the scorching sun became a guiding principle in his vineyard management.
The respect Manni has for the land extends into the cellar. All his wines undergo fermentation in stainless steel tanks to retain their fragility and aroma. The Veltliner, however, ferments in neutral acacia barrels, accounting for half its vinification process. After spending eight months on lees, they acquire an added layer of texture and depth. The final product encapsulates Manni's deep love for the terroir and the ethereal beauty of the Alpine landscape.
Often regarded as a rebel for his non-conformist approach to winemaking, Manni has garnered significant accolades. His family farm, "Hoandlhof", located on a hill above Brixen, once thrived on livestock breeding but has shifted focus. Manni’s vision led to the establishment of the winery in 1999. His determination to craft wines with character and individuality set him apart in the Isarco Valley. This distinct approach brought him early recognition, with his first Kerner earning three glasses from a prestigious Italian wine guide. Today, Manni has gained the endearing title of “Mr. Kerner.”
The foundation of Manni's success lies in his vineyards, which are situated between 500 to 900 meters above sea level. The unique microclimate of each vineyard, combined with the general warmth of the days and coolness of the nights, has paved the way for creating wines with a distinct character.