From: Burgundy, France
GOEDHUIS, DECEMBER 2022
Puligny Montrachet’s last Premier Cru before you arrive in the commune of Meursault. Its clay and marl soils are more akin to its neighbour, and therefore make a bolder style of Puligny, whilst retaining a purity and citrus zest. Hazelnut, vanilla pod and fresh croissant scent. The palate has a richness to it, the sense of silky glycerol sits beneath flavours of satsuma and watermelon. Great length and intensity.
JASPER MORRIS MW, DECEMBER 2022, SCORE: 90-93
A light green touch, with a bouquet a little more marked by the wood. Excellent volume for the vintage in terms of fruit in the mouth, still with some wood at the back, with lemon scented notes and a good thread of acidity. Properly persistent, Drink from 2026-2033.
About. Perhaps more than any of his peers, Fichet is testing the limits of transparency, to find the very soul of Meursault’s terroirs. It was Meursault’s destiny to have its soils revealed in this way: their intense stoniness is magnified by an exceptionally low water table, forcing the vines’ roots deep underground. Even if uneconomical, Fichet would rather produce a very small amount of wine from his best sites than to lose their unique character in a blend. Fichet has flown largely under the world’s radar. He began as a grower in 1981 but was forced to rebuild his domaine from scratch in the 1990s, having lost all his best fruit sources—including a piece of Meursault-Perrières—for lack of long-term contracts. But he learned from this experience. By 2000, he had used carefully negotiated long-term fermage and mètayage agreements to create an extraordinary new domaine, brimming with exceptional sites. Fichet’s methods reflect his philosophy: he is famously meticulous and abhors taking short cuts. His low yields, the foremost key to quality, are achieved through severe winter pruning rather than by green harvesting. And he believes his wines’ expressiveness is enhanced through a patient 18-month élevage, with little new oak and by avoiding aggressive lees stirring.
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