Jasper Morris, Review Date: 01/2024
An even mid crimson purple. The fruit has a touch more intensity, predominantly raspberry, driving to another level at the back of the palate. Even here the barrel needs longer to integrate, this time with a smoky cream note, but in this instance I have no doubt that it will all do so given a little time in bottle. Drink from 2027-2030.

Wine Advocate, Review Date: 01/2024
The 2021 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pressonnier has turned out beautifully, bursting with aromas of cherries, cassis and plums framed by a deft touch of creamy oak. Medium to full-bodied, supple and satiny, with lively acids and a saline finish, it will offer a broad drinking window. Tasting with affable eleventh-generation vigneron Pierre-Jean Roty— who took the helm at this discrete family-owned domaine following his brother's untimely passing in 2015—is an annual pleasure that I always eagerly anticipate. This year, it was the turn of the 2021s, wines that have nothing to fear from a comparison with other sunnier, drier recent years, exuding charm and perfume that will delight Burgundy purists. Roty fans will be familiar with the approach at this address: assiduously but only shallowly cultivated soils, a high proportion of old vines, minimal use of chemical treatments, destemmed grapes fermented in concrete tanks, and élevage in generous percentages of smoky new oak for 15-16 months. My sense is that today's wines are suppler than the Roty wines of yesteryear. They're less forbidding in their youth than their formidable reputation might suggest—even the grands crus boast such generosity of fruit that their rich structuring tannins are frequently concealed. But they develop just as gracefully as ever. Readers shouldn't hesitate to seek them out. (WK)

Vinous, Review Date: 01/2024
The 2021 Bourgogne Côte d'Or Pressonier has a light but attractive bouquet of blackberry and raspberry fruit - quite cohesive - conveying a sense of presence perhaps above its station. The medium-bodied palate offers crunchy red fruit, quite tart in the mouth but clean and fresh with a vivid, sparkly finish. Not often I say drink this young, but do so to enjoy its exuberance. (NM) 

Pairing: This gorgeous, humble Bourgogne rouge will pair wonderfully with everything classic; examples include serving this alongside beef bourguignon, veal, lamb, roasted chicken (or chicken thighs) with mushrooms and caramelized scallions, braised meats, hearty and creamy mushroom pasta or risotto, and any other dish centered around sausage, mushroom, or butternut squash with browned butter, rosemary, sage, or Mediterranean herbs. We’re sharing an umami-heavy recipe that can be used as a side or main course for creamy polenta with mushrooms below.

Creamy Polenta With Mushrooms
Recipe from Chris Jaeckle, adapted by Sam Sifton 

Coupled with late picking, which further concentrates yields and with fermentation below 30 degrees, and a cuvaison of three weeks, the structure and complexity is consequentially remarkable and the winemaking uncompromising in achieving this. With a little age these wines develop wonderful aromatics with the characteristic Pinot Noir flavours of black cherry and stone fruit. The old vine fruit contributes the length of flavour and great complexity. Roty’s Charmes Chambertin Cuvée Trѐs Vieilles Vignes is largely harvested from vines of over 120 years.

One of the great domaines of Gevrey. Pierre-Jean has taken up the reins and seems to intent on following the families somewhat idiosyncratic, uncompromising path. “Nothing changes” as Madame Roty told us on our last visit. These are not fashion- conscious wines, everything is destemmed, new oak is relatively high, around 50% on the village wines, 60-70% on the Lieux-Dit and 100% on the Grand Cru. They are wines made to age, there is little point opening them young.

Roty developed his own custom heat exchanger to cool the tanks and delay the onset of fermentation for a week or more, which enabled him to minimize sulfur additions to the vats. His use of wooden cuvées for fermentation (the tops are closed once the tanks are filled), which take a while to heat up, also helped him draw out the pre-fermentation cold soak. (Extended cold maceration clearly brings deeper color, which some other producers try to achieve through very warm fermentation temperatures.) Roty began

working with wild yeasts in 1985, and the wines here have been fermented entirely with indigenous yeasts since the harvest of 1987.

Philippe and now Pierre-Jean adopted their father’s practices with very few significant adjustments; in my tastings with them over the past nearly 20 years, both made it clear to me that they were not interested in making any substantial changes to their father’s methods.

Pierre-Jean continues to add very little sulfur during the juice stage, although he now uses a more modern and effective heat exchanger to cool the grapes and delay the onset of the fermentation. He continues to take advantage of batonnage, depending on the needs of each vintage. But after several years of experimenting with stainless steel tanks with his brother Philippe, Pierre-Jean no longer vinifies in wooden vats. The Rotys modernized their vat room in 2014 and now use only stainless steel and a few concrete tanks. (But note that all of the vintages in my recent tasting were vinified in wooden vats.)