From: Loire Valley, France
Varietal: Melon de Bourgogne
Taste: An alluring bouquet of ripe citrus, honey, and quince, punctuated with undertones of stone fruit. On the palate, this hand-harvested, meticulously aged wine shows off a complex character, displaying a compelling fusion of power and generosity. Hints of granite-driven minerality dance through its lean, steely texture, leaving a tantalizing saltiness on the finish.
Pairing: Clisson excels as an accompaniment to various dishes. Its vibrant, nuanced flavors find harmony with seafood like oysters, scallops, and smoked salmon, enhancing their delicate textures and tastes. The wine's robust character boldly stands up to more decadent dishes such as pan-fried risotto cakes, fried catfish, or chicken (check out the recipe below), revealing new dimensions of flavor.
Mochiko Chicken
Recipe from Relle Lum
Adapted by Elyse Inamine
About. From the steps of Brittany, where the rolling landscape whispers tales of history and heritage, the village of Maisdon sur Sèvre springs forth. Here, the Domaine de la Pépière found its roots in 1984, established by a native son, Marc, inspired by the vines that have always graced the hills above his hometown. The winery's name, 'La Pépière,' a local term suggesting thirst, tells a story that reflects the estate's unique setting.
Above the village, where the vines stretch their tendrils towards the sun, rocky outcroppings dot the landscape. This is a land where water is precious, scarce in the arid, stony terrain, and so it has always been. Yet, it's precisely this austerity that has shaped the character of the region's wine. The vines delve deep into the granite-rich subsoil, drawing forth the mineral elements that distinguish this vintage.
Over the years, Domaine de la Pépière has evolved, guided by a commitment to quality. It has expanded its holdings, meticulously selecting old and remarkable terroirs. With Rémi's arrival in 2007, the estate began transitioning to organic farming, and under Gwénaëlle's influence in 2013, it embraced biodynamics.
The vineyards sit in the CLISSON appellation, located at the southern edge of Sèvre et Maine. The vines thrive on wood-lined mounds that form vineyard islands in an open, well-ventilated landscape. The Clisson Cru, originating from the southernmost part of the Armorican massif, boasts a distinct terroir. Its subsoil – a mix of granite, gravel, and clay with rolled pebbles – offers excellent draining qualities, facilitating deep rooting and nourishing the wine with essential minerals.
Poured at 12-14°C after decanting, the 2020 Domaine de la Pépière 'Clisson' Muscadet offers a lavish experience. It wafts notes of ripe citrus, honey, and quince, underlined by subtle, cooked fruit undertones. This Muscadet is a product of careful vineyard labor. The hand-harvested grapes ferment naturally in underground glass tanks for 1 to 2 months. A minimum of two years aging on lees, stirring occasionally, complements the grape's high maturity, endowing the Clisson Cru with power and generosity.
The beauty of the Muscadet shines when paired with seafood like scallops and smoked salmon. Its vibrant character stands up to pan-fried foie gras and robust cheeses, promising a delightful culinary encounter.
The Signature of Granite: Terroir's Influence on La Pépière Clisson Muscadet
The profound influence of granite on the Clisson Muscadet from La Pépière is undeniable. Constituting a mere five percent of the Muscadet appellation soils, this ancient rock, rich in quartz, feldspar, and mica, weathers into nutrient-rich clays, providing a unique soil profile for the vineyards.
The Clisson region is blessed with two types of granite, Clisson and Château Thébaud, interspersed with gneiss and amphibolite stones. Vines aged 60-90 years lend their strength and depth to the wine from these unique soils, which age 24 months on lees to further enrich their character.
Despite all the grapes being Melon de Bourgogne and receiving similar cellar treatment, Marc Ollivier, the vintner at La Pépière, discerns distinct differences in the wines, a testament to the terroir's powerful influence.
The granite's geological properties lend distinctive traits to the wine; this rock, light in color and coarse in texture, weathers into grainy soils high in potassium and sodium, promoting deep root growth for the vines. The granite, abundant in quartz and potassium feldspar, retains heat well, subtly reducing the wine's acidity, a beneficial attribute for the acidic Melon de Bourgogne used in Muscadet.
Clisson's granitic soil, a harmonious composition of sand, clay, carbonates, and silicates, lends the wine a lean, steely texture. The hint of saltiness on the Muscadet finish is oft attributed to the region's closeness to the ocean. Despite Melon de Bourgogne's status as a less recognized varietal, the terroir imparts unmistakable qualities to the wine. The soils' uniqueness powerfully influences the character of the wine, showcasing the vital role terroir plays in winemaking.
