From: Kremstal, Austria
Varietal: Gruner Veltliner
Tasting Notes: This Grüner Veltliner is a crisp and mineral-focused wine with hints of citrus, lemon peel, lychee, and a touch of spiciness that may remind you of white pepper. Fresh yet savory, this year-round favorite comes in a liter bottle for easier sharing!
Pairing: Try pairing this classic wine with an equally classic dish; Schnitzel! As J. Kenji López-Alt (get the full recipe via NY Times Cooking) notes below, the crust matters! Since we’re making an Austrian classic, I’d suggest veering toward the puffy, crisp crust, but I’m sure either version or a riff off of either would be perfectly delicious as well. PS if you have food allergies or are vegetarian, there are options! Gluten-free all-purpose-flour has gotten much better & works here, and there are great tempeh/seitan/tofu substitutes for the veal or pork cutlets available.
“The most celebrated schnitzels in Vienna feature a crisp golden crust that puffs dramatically around a thinly pounded veal cutlet (pork loin cutlets are an easy, inexpensive alternative to veal), allowing the meat to cook gently within. Head over to Germany and you are more likely to find schnitzel with a crust that adheres to the meat. Both versions can be fantastic. For an extra-puffy crust, brush the cutlets with vodka before breading them. The volatility of the alcohol produces steam that inflates the schnitzel as it fries. (Water or white vinegar will also work if you want to avoid using alcohol.) If you prefer a crust that adheres more closely to the meat, whack the cutlets with the back of a knife a few times after pounding them in Step 3 to create an uneven surface texture; dry the meat well on paper towels, and skip the vodka coating in Step 5.”
This is a father/son estate of fourteen hectares. Half of the land consists of south-facing loess terraces with locally renowned names. Vines are Riesling, Veltliner, Pinot Blanc and the “C” word. There’s some land on the Gedersdorf plateau that’s planted to red varieties. All the wines are made dry, of course. They use cultured yeasts to get slow fermentations and to preserve the utmost CO2. Berger is all stainless steel, of course. Technology for controlling fermentation temperatures, by no means universal in Austria, has been in use here since 1990.
