From: Morey-Saint-Denis, Burgundy, France
Varietal: Pinot Noir
Taste & Critical Acclaim: We visited New York in September and tasted many wines that aren’t widely available (and don’t come to Seattle), hoping to find some gems to bring into the shop; this wine was one of them. We’re thrilled to offer this gem; my tasting notes are below.
2019 Georges Lignier & Fils Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru Clos des Ormes
Suthap’s favorite of today’s lineup. This is not surprising, given its depth of fruit, earth, complexity, richness, and silky, mineral-tinged tannins.
This premier cru wine’s pricing is basically at villages pricing today, which is incredible given its proximity to the Clos de la Roche Grand Cru (Georges Lignier farms two hectares in this 1er cru) and how it’s tasting right now— though this is another wine I wish I had more time with, as its showing now of deep, lush fruit with an undercurrent of woodsy earth. Seductive, rich, and yet fresh. Red and black fruits continue to unfold in the glass, along with spice and subtle, dark florals. The vibe now gives off Chambolle-Musigny meets Gevrey-Chambertin-esque feels, but I suspect it’ll start showing off with just an hour or two in a decanter.
JANCIS ROBINSON (16.50)
This 2-ha vineyard lies at the foot of the Clos de la Roche grand cru. It was nearly entirely replanted following heavy soil erosion during the 1963 season. The presence of winter cover crops serves to avoid this kind of soil disaster thanks to surface roots that keep the ground from eroding. 80% destemmed, brief cool maceration and 7–9 days' vatting. 10 months in oak, of which 30% new. Cask sample. Deep crimson. Seductively rich and fresh at the same time. Both red and black fruits and subtle spice. Morey's complex fragrance that is both slightly floral and slightly peppery. Firm and a little bit chewy on the palate, the tannins giving shape to the lovely fruit depth. Refined and long. (JH)
Pairing: The list for pairing ideas is lengthy. You could match this gorgeous red to mushroom risotto, braised beef dishes, roasted pork, veal chops, game birds like pheasant, duck, or even a ribeye. It would pair well with homemade burgers or “one-pot” meals like sheet-pan sausages with caramelized shallots and potatoes or sheet-pan chicken (check out the recipe below).
Sheet-Pan Chicken With Shallots and Grapes
By Colu Henry
About. Only eight estates in Burgundy claim ownership of the 4 hectares of Clos des Ormes, and Georges Lignier’s 2ha share is equal to the other seven combined. Located just downslope from Clos de la Roche, Lignier gives all the attention such an exemplary site is due to create a wine of elegance and significance. Surprisingly, the vine age is the youngest of all Lignier’s holdings, only averaging 45 years. We’ve worked closely with this Domaine for the past 4 or 5 vintages, and the new releases are another success for this address. They’ve always had incredible holdings, but underperformed with them in the ‘80s, ‘90s, and early ‘00s. However, in 2010 a new winemaker (Benoit Stehly, nephew of Georges Lignier) took over, the wines started to improve, and then in ’15, he converted all the vineyards to organic farming and really concentrated on improving their fruit. The results of all that hard work are starting to pay dividends, and I see this as a Domaine truly on a rise to stardom.
This is a wine for the Burgundy purist, which emphasizes complexity and transparency before concentration and color, energy and vibrancy before power. Lignier's wines show all the tension and brightness we expect from this address with a bit more stuffing and concentration than usual. For fans of this style of Pinot Noir, these are archetypal examples that remain smartly priced given both the quality of their old-vine holdings in some of the most hallowed terroir in the Cote de Nuits and their obvious overall class. This is Burgundy without pretense, haltingly honest and extremely delicious, and we couldn’t be more pleased to offer these wines.
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