BILL NANSON - BURGUNDY REPORT April 2021
Another visit to a new domaine (for me) as I tasted a great Petit Chablis from here back in January…
Here is Didier, who works together with his wife, Helene and his brother, Sylvain.
It was Didier and Sylvain’s parents who constructed the domaine. Their grandparents had 5 hectares of vines but with 3 sons, each going their separate ways to form their own domains, the surface of land that they inherited was very very small for each of them. Yet today, here is a domaine of 27 hectares – about 12 hectares Chablis and a similar surface for the 1ers – indeed 9 hectares of (just!) Côte de Lechets! There’s a négoce activity here too with old, long-term, contracts. This domaine is organic and Ecocert certified.
The wines on vintage 2019: All the 2019 cuvées have been bottled but the large cuvée of Côte de Lechets still has a final bottling to be done. Their 1ers and grand crus were bottled after the previous harvest – it’s a longer elevage, aided by the extra space in their new cuverie. All DIAM here – some different densities are used “But we are happy with them they really keep the style of wine which we want to produce.”
2019 Chablis Vaudesir: All barrel – none new. Some oak notes but here is a clarity and minerality that is so involving and completely inviting. It’s the clarity of flavours that set this wine apart – the oak is there but instantly forgotten – the volume, the sparkling energy – concentrated but still airy – that’s a beautiful wine. Bravo – another great 2019 Vaudésir.