2017 Haart Estate Riesling (Medium-Dry)
Blend: 100% Riesling
From Mosel, Germany
This small 7.5 ha estate is centred on Piesporter Goldtröpfchen, one of the great sites of the Mittel Mosel. Piesport, a name shamelessly debased by commercial exploitation in the latter half of the 20th century, actually played an important part in the propagation of Riesling in preference to lesser varieties in the 18th century. Theo Haart’s wines are made naturally without any overarching style imposition, maximising quality in the context of the vintage and by reducing yields. The intensely blackcurrant fruit is characteristic, so too is a profusion of peach, apricot and citrus in many Spätlese and Auslese wines as well as exotic fruits in the sweetest styles. It is this flavour and intensity that marks out the wines’ quality, supported by a subtle minerality and perfectly balanced acidity. Other sites such as Dronhofberger give cooler green apple and citrus flavours but share this intensity. Wintrich Ohligsberg (which like Goldtröpfchen qualifies as Erste Lage) offers spice and ripe peach at the Auslese level. The true potential of these wines is only revealed with age. Some Goldkapsel bottlings are made as are a little Beerenauslese or TBA, though the last can be difficult to obtain as they are usually set aside as Versteigerungswein (wines for auction). There are also two Grosses Gewächs dry wines; the Ohligsberg is sharper than the fuller Goldtröpchen. Haart to Heart is a light attractive quaffing Riesling.
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