From: Burgundy, France
Blend: 2/3 Gamay, 1/3 Pinot Noir
Taste: The 2017 Chevillon Passetoutgrains is vivacious and perfumed, showing punchy flavors of red and dark fruit like bing cherries and raspberry on the nose that evolve into cranberry and wild berry flavors on the palate. In addition to the fruit, this Passetoutgrains holds notes of brambly earth spice, white pepper, a hint of camphor, hibiscus (more notable on the palate), and minerals. At six years of age, this Passetoutgrain is showing off its sleek side and should be served slightly chilled and decanted (or let breathe once opened) for about 20 minutes.
"It would be a mistake to dismiss this Passetoutgrain as a repository for undesirable Gamay grapes and Pinot Noir leftovers that did not make the cut. At Domaine Chevillon, this humble wine is a thing of beauty: the product of old vines from just outside Nuits-Saint-Georges, it is made with the same loving care as the Chevillons’ noblest premiers crus. A blend of two-thirds Gamay with the balance of Pinot Noir, it has a gorgeous perfume of wild berries with a touch of white pepper. This soft, graceful red rises above and beyond its humble appellation."
Pairing: Earthy, mineral, and pleasurable, this Passetoutgrains stands out in terms of versatility and pairing. An assortment of charcuterie, veal/veal liver, paté, sautéed mushrooms, Merguez sausages (see recipe below or order Flint Creek’s Lamb & Marjoram Sausage), anything from the BBQ (including burgers of all flavors), and eggplant-based dishes all fare well alongside this gorgeous red.
By Melissa Clark
About. Thanks very much to importer KLWM for this introduction of the domaine. The stunning collection of premier cru and old-vine vineyards held by the two Chevillon brothers would make any Pinot Noir grower jealous. Their innate ability to carefully tend the vines and master the difficult Burgundian conditions provides ripe, healthy clusters of grapes year after year. Taste through the barrels of Chevillon post-harvest and it doesn't matter what happened the year before, almost as if by miracle, the wines show class and character, and each terroir has its distinct idiosyncrasies. It is le vrai Pinot chez Chevillon.
Brothers Bertrand and Denis Chevillon are the fifth-generation managers of this property in Nuits-Saint-Georges, which means they work the vines and make the wines. Their father Robert, for whom the domaine is named, is still active as well. Both brothers bring passion, experience, a tireless work ethic, and intensity to their work at the domaine. Tasting through their palate of Nuits- Saint-Georges is a venerable tour of the appellation. Their Passetoutgrain, a blend of Pinot and Gamay, is a worthy introduction and their rare (two barrels made) Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc made from the “Pinot Gouges” is an exotic treasure that ages just as long as the domaine’s fabled reds. And their Bourgogne Aligoté, Bourgogne Chardonnay and Bourgogne Rouge are grown and vinified with the same care as their premier crus. It shows.
The track record of the Chevillon wines in the cellar is one of the most remarkable aspects of this storied domaine. We regularly have the good fortune to taste back through the past three decades of vintages of all the various premier crus and the wines always more than convincing—they are amongst Burgundy’s very best. In fact, I have often been more disappointed with grand cru bottlings than I am with the top-tier Chevillon premier crus. Indeed, Nuits-Saint-Georges does not officially have any grand cru vineyards, but we are convinced that Cailles, Vaucrains and Les Saint-Georges are firmly grand cru quality. This decision is currently in the hands of the appellation authorities but it is almost better if the status quo doesn’t change–that way we are assured to get grand cru quality at a premier cru price!
Now, to the details about the Bourgogne Passetoutgrain AOC. We found an awesome article detailing all the important tidbits about this lesser-known regional designation of origin from punchdrink.com that we’re sharing here!
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