From: Le Marche, Italy
Varietal: Verdicchio
Taste: A crisp and characteristically fresh wine with lively citrus notes complemented by delicate white floral nuances (this is noticeable in its freshness, but don’t worry- it’s not soapy or sweet!). Marked acidity underpins the fruit, with classic minerality and a saline note on the long, persistent finish.
Pairing: This wine would be fantastic served as an aperitif wine served alongside marcona almonds, Proscuitto, savory tarts, potato-cheese puff pastries, quiche and savory soufflés. That said, it inspired us to share a recipe for Zucchini, haloumi and herb tarts by Sophia Young. She says, “This vegetarian tart can be served up in half an hour - just have your ingredients and kitchen tools ready!”
Three elements distinguish Verdicchio di Matelica from that produced in the Castelli di Jesi area.
The first refers to the quantities of grapes produced. The area under vine in Matelica is roughly one-tenth of that of Castelli di Jesi.
The second element refers to the climatic conditions. The area surrounding Matelica is the only area in the Marche region that runs parallel to the Adriatic coast, so that there is no direct link to the sea. Consequently, the climate is continental.
The third element which distinguishes this wine is that the enclave of Matelica has over the years produced a particular clone of Verdicchio as a result of adaptation to the soil and weather conditions. Compared to the Jesi version, it usually has a fuller body, slightly higher alcohol but the same acidity that makes it very suitable for aging.
About this wine.
The Porcarelli family has owned the Tenuta Colpaola estate in the Braccano Frazione of Matelica since the 1970s. For many years, the grapes were sold to the local co-operative (which is fairly common in both Italy and France, but is always a joy to see, as it indicates a look toward sustainability, quality, and an embrace of terroir), but in 2013 the family bottled its first wines and has not looked back since. The 10 hectares of mainly eastfacing vineyard is situated at 650 metres above sea level and is the highest in the Matelica denomination. It is farmed organically and is fully certified, although they choose not to put the certification on the label. Only one style of Verdicchio is produced, and they use a stelvin closure (screwcap) as a nod toward that style: though ageworthy, it’s ultimately fresh and gulpable.