From: Jura, France
Varietal: Savagnin
Taste: In this "baby vin jaune" style, the Savagnin grape, under the protective veil (voile) of flor yeast, unfolds a captivating complexity of savory, nutty nuances, replete with a deep richness. All this to say, this wine isn’t only savory! Albariño-esque notes of briny lemon, ripe peach, white flower, and a hint of green herbs come to its aromatic forefront, followed by those nutty, savory, umami undertones. The palate is greeted by those same briny citrus notes, enhanced by savory, earthy flavors of mushroom, truffle, and a whisper of onion skin.
Pairing: When it comes to pairing, the 2018 Frédéric Lornet Arbois Savagnin Non Ouillé makes a compelling companion to a variety of dishes. The nutty, savory characteristics of the wine pair beautifully with aged Comté cheese. For a more substantial meal, consider almond-crusted roast chicken thighs, or perhaps a Gruyere cheese soufflé (see below). The wine's affinity for umami flavors also makes it a worthy partner to sherry-accompanying dishes such as olives in olive oil, iberico ham, or a delectable ham and butter baguette sandwich. Even a simple dish of roasted chicken served over roasted shallots and fingerling potatoes, accompanied by a side of sautéed mushrooms, can unlock a new dimension of the wine.
Gruyère and Chive Soufflé
By Melissa Clark
About. Wine, in its myriad expressions, is often considered an art form, and the mastery that Frédéric Lornet brings to the table through his 2018 Arbois Savagnin Non Ouillé, is a testament to this assertion. Located in the serene Abbaye de Genne in Montigny-lès-Arsures, a small village near Arbois that houses some of the finest estates in the region, Lornet's winery is imbued with a rich history of coopers and viticulture, which began its expansion in earnest with the purchase of the abbey in 1989.
A staunch critic of oxidative winemaking styles, barring Vin Jaune, Lornet was a pioneer in introducing a fresher, zestier rendition of the Savagnin grape, laced with a distinctive mineral twist. Today, his vineyards span nearly 20 hectares, all dedicated to the relentless pursuit of quality and authenticity.
A Celebration of Savagnin
Savagnin is a grape variety steeped in centuries of history, dating back at least 900 years to medieval France. Known by various names, including Traminer and Heida, Savagnin's origin remains a topic of much debate, even as its global influence spreads to regions far beyond its European heartland. The grape is revered for its ability to produce dry white wines with impressive acidity and a myriad of flavors ranging from citrus and floral to tropical notes.
In Jura, Savagnin has found its unique identity through the production of the iconic Vin Jaune wines. Characterized by a nutty, Sherry-like profile, these wines are aged in oak barrels for over six years, revealing an intensity and aging potential that is second to none. Savagnin also plays a supporting role in Crémant de Jura sparkling wines and is often blended with Chardonnay, which currently makes up around 45% of Jura's vineyards. Savagnin, by contrast, represents roughly 15% of the region's vineyards, equating to approximately 300 hectares.
The 2018 Frédéric Lornet Arbois Savagnin Non Ouillé
Frédéric Lornet's 2018 Arbois Savagnin Non Ouillé is a captivating showcase of how to subtly modify the vin jaune principle. Here, traditional Savagnin is aged for a year or two, without topping up the barrels, enabling the wine to develop oxidative notes while preserving the essential fruit character. The result is a unique wine that offers an intriguing glimpse into an ancient wine style that is challenging, if not impossible, to replicate.